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Any collection with the name “Arctic Suburb Manual” is likely to be highly conceptual. This is the case with the Autumn/ Winter 2014 range from Asger Juel Larsen. Larsen excels in creating pieces that blend tailoring and sportswear (which has been a constant theme on the catwalk for menswear designers over the last few seasons). With a background working at John Richmond and Burberry Prorsum as well as graduating from the London College of Fashion, Larsen’s vision for his own brand is somewhat more sinister – described as a state of romance, warfare and gothic utopia.
The Autumn collection is inspired by city punks, marooned in an ice invaded wilderness. This haunting and barren background is the perfect place to wear clothes as armour – jackets and coats are heavy, dark and resilient with science fiction elements present in the digital print and foil pieces. The graphic print used is striking – a web of deconstructed handcuffs with a playful swirl, and stained glass broken into print. The use of neoprone in jackets and mesh in vests and tanktops takes this theme further. Undoubtedly streetwear in its tone, with many oversize pieces in black and white, this is an imaginative and creative new collection.