Alexandre Plokhov is the eponymous label of former Cloak designer Alexandre Plokhov. From his New York studio, Plokhov creates lean, mean, decidedly futuristic silhouettes which reject the mainstream by drawing inspiration from youth, punk sub cultures and the raw power of Goth music. As if the world of Mortal Kombat has been brought to the runway the designer’s collections combine the magnificent with the minimal and the edgy with the bygone romance and elegance of the Russian aristocracy.
Your former label Cloak was a pioneering game changer that transformed the face of menswear. Why, in your opinion was that era right for Cloak? How did you utlise the then zeitgeist to your advantage?
Thank you for the compliment! When I was doing it, I never felt it was a game changer at all. It was a labor of love and I think that is what resonated with the people who gravitated to it. There was no blueprint or master plan.
Moving on from Cloak and your experience at Marc Jacobs, you have since worked with Versace, and now at your own eponymous label – how has this progression influenced you and your design ethos evolve?
After Cloak had run its course I was the Menswear Design Director for Versace Uomo’s runway collection for the duration of my three years contract. The design ethos did not change at all, I still like the same things I liked before. The only thing that changed is my understanding of how clothes should be made. Hopefully, that evolved for the better.
You combine the traditionality of tailoring with a focused design aesthetic that contains elements of androgyny and a taste for the avant garde, how do you mix this diversity so seamlessly?
I think tailoring is the foundation of a modern man’s wardrobe. My work stems from understanding pattern-making and the fundamentals of fit. If all of it translates into something new, so much the better! Androgyny is not something I seek out, I just happen to like guys with long hair. In my eyes it makes the line of the clothes leaner.
Your aesthetic is quite dark with black being a dominant colour in all of your collections. What inspires this choice?
I see the world around me largely in monochrome with varying shades of grey and black. For me this is the pal-ette of New York.
Being of Russian descent, what are your views on the current fashion scene of Eastern Europe?
I lived in the United States for the last 23 years and have very little knowledge to what’s going on in Russia. I try to visit every year or so. However, two names come to mind, Vika Gazinskaya and Gosha Rubchinskiy. Both do in-teresting work.
In particular how do you feel menswear has involved in recent decades, and how will it continue to evolve?
Nobody has a crystal ball and I’m unable to tell you what is the future of menswear but I can trace the things I like from Yohji to Helmut Lang and early Raf Simmons – from Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane skinny rocker style to a more architectural aesthetic of Rick Owens.
You eschew the fashion circus and take a much more low key approach to presenting your collections, does this work to or against your advantage and how does this reflect your own self?
I am not entirely comfortable placing myself in the limelight. In my experience, excessive public exposure does not guarantee increase in sell, though.
Dark and mysterious, your SS14 collection is yet another brilliant example of your craftsmanship. What should we expect from you next?
I am a somewhat superstitious person and prefer not to talk about the upcoming season until it is ready to be presented. January is just around the corner!