The North generally is associated with stern lines, minimalism and rigidness. Not often, we can observe a break from this rather morose and clinical approach to fashion design. Nonetheless, Danish brand WACKERHAUS, embraces the more lovely side of spring, using crisp pastels, silk prints and lush summer knits. Its universe gives us a sense of freedom and positivity, much needed after a long dreary Scandinavian winter. As the first glimmers of spring finally arrived, we caught up with creative director Trine Wackerhausen, to speak of functionality, collection titles and seasonal transitions.
Hello Trine, where are you today and who is with you?
This week, we are in beautiful Vilnius, Lithuania on a production and research trip with my colleague Anna. We are correcting samples for the coming SS15 collection and we are so thrilled and excited about the result so far. It is a most special time.
Hailing from Denmark, in how far do you interact with your surroundings? And do they shape a backdrop to the collections?
Well, I definitely think that my Danish background does shape my collections.
We tend to be quite practically oriented here in Denmark which sometimes can lead to a rather lazy approach towards the general conceptualization of how we dress up. Sometimes this can be quite a challenge to have in your genes. That being said, I also love working under these dogmas of functionality. For my work, I am constantly pushing and twisting functional design in a decorative and interesting direction without losing the essence of utility.
Let’s speak a little about SS14. What was your thought behind the color palette, textural fabrics and delicate light feeling of the garments?
For SS14, I wanted to capture that wonderful feeling of freedom, optimism and joy that washes over Copenhagen when summer is arriving. We Scandinavians tend to be quite grey during winter, introvert and dressing down, in dark colors that shield us from the rare pale wintry rays. Summer awakens the best in all of us, our blood is pumping faster in our vains, our cheeks are blushing and people greet each other with a smile. SS14 – POOL CITY, celebrates lightness and joy, therefore I used a broad color palette and soft glittery textures to express that feeling of reclaimed bubbly joy.
WACKERHAUS always embraces women as free, proudly composed, with a touch of sensuality. Who is the WACKERHAUS woman?
Well you got it pretty right. We aspire to embrace all kinds of women, for me it is important a woman is confident, intelligent and able to make profound choices for her wardrobe. It is hard to define one special person, but I suggest she is rather classic, searching for sartorial details with a twist while looking effortlessly elegant with a touch of masculinity.
Looking at the wonderful array of collections you designed, how would you describe your own process of evaluation, creativity and development over the years?
Personally, I believe the journey I am on is just getting better and better. It is like climbing a mountain and as you get closer to the top, you realise that it is more about the trip itself rather than reaching the peak. That is a great element of satisfaction. One progresses steadily, but never forgets his development.
Fashion often seems centered on the dialogue of art vs utility and form vs function, what to you is more relevant in your designs, functionality, form or silhouette?
Functionality is essential to me. In my designs, I just do not feel the same satisfaction if function is compromised too much. Nonetheless, the silhouettes are expressive and composed, noting a clear line for each collection.
WACKERHAUS always selects quirky collection titles (ed. such as POOL CITY for SS14), could you tell me more about these?
Well, the titles are extremely important to me. Together with my international pr agent, we spent a lot of time discussing back and forth before deciding on the title for each collection. For me it is important, that the title can tell a story about the collection in maximum three words. I want it to be catchy, descriptive and dreamy at the same time.
Trine, a last question, if you had to describe your work with one adjective, which would it be?
Challenging.