Idan Gilony and Fanny Lawaetz are two best friends from Tel Aviv and Stockholm respectively, who were brought close by their shared passion for creation. Together they form UY, a Berlin-based alternative fashion label that offers highly conceptual options to those who refuse to conform to current trends. Exclusively for CHASSEUR, the two designers share their thoughts on life in Berlin, the importance of individuality and the irrelevance of gender in fashion.
Despite being from two very diverse backgrounds, you seem to work in perfect harmony together, creating pieces that are both minimal and edgy in nature. What is life in the studio with you two? Has it always been that way?
Idan: Even from the beginning, we realized that we both shared a unique aesthetic. From there on we started creating in a way that allowed both our individual perspectives to shine through. That is the vibe between us- raw, emotional and creative- we make mistakes and from that we might get something beautiful that we didn’t even thought would happen.
Fanny: Also, even though we are doing many things together, there is also a lot of independence, which is great because it helps us improve and grow. If I’m working on something and I show Idan and it’s an idea or a design that surprises him, then he feels inspired as well. That’s what helps us grow as people and designers and ultimately what takes UY in a very positive, real place.
Berlin is almost about to take its rightful place as one of the world’s most prominent fashion capitals. Do you feel that the alternative fashion scene might suffer in any way, once that happens?
Berlin is a great source of inspiration but that doesn’t mean that it has to be the place to exhibit it in such an apparent and obvious way. The real fashion presentations and shows are usually out of sight with no bloggers, photographers, stages or advertising, involved. These events are what the city really has to offer and what keep the underground scene alive.
You have stated that you design a lot with yourselves on mind. Personal aesthetics and tastes– aside, to what degree do you let your emotions (or current states of mind) define you creative decisions?
Idan: If we are nervous about something or stressed the result won’t be good, because the intention wasn’t there.
Fanny: But then on the flip side, because we allow ourselves to be so raw with our creativity, we’re able to pull inspiration from so many different outlets. If we really like what we do, we can work on it for one week without getting any sleep or even leaving the studio.
Idan: We are producing the garments in our home/studio. We live here and work here, so we’re always living and breathing UY. Even when we go out dancing, the work still follows us as we are constantly on the lookout for anything from models to inspiration. So I think it would be impossible to separate UY from our personal lives, I wish one day it would though.
UY features an innovative mix of different references strongly associated with culture. Your latest project US by UY showcases that perfectly. Could you tell us a few words about it?
Idan: As our label grows, we’re trying to remain true to what we stand for, which is unisex and undefined. That’s what we were trying to capture with the US by UY project. We wanted to showcase the stereotypes of Berlin and how they can come together in a very harmonious way. If you were to see these people apart from one another you would never imagine that they could be part of the same group, but then when you see it, it all works together. You literally can be anyone in Berlin and anyone could wear UY.
Fanny: We also wanted to show just how multi-cultural Berlin is, especially in 2015. It’s so international, and we were very inspired by that. Berlin doesn’t even really feel like Germany anymore, that’s how much of a melting pot it is. And with US we really wanted to align UY with that multi-cultural viewpoint, because that’s what Idan and I stand for.
A fetish undertone is quite evident in all of your designs. Should we assume that this is yet another influence that Berlin has on you?
Fanny: If you would come to Berlin you would see just how open everyone is with their sexuality. People come here because they know that they’ll be accepted, and because of that you get to see people often openly expressing themselves through the way they dress.
Idan: We are not afraid to make clothing that might scare some people, because it’s real, it’s what we stand for, and that’s UY.
We hear that a new UY Home Line is on the plans. What elements from your signature aesthetic will you be bringing into this new venture and what should we expect from it?
UY Home is yet another way to express our agenda. The idea is to collaborate with product designers and different artists who share our aesthetic, in order to create simple and functional home decor and art pieces in affordable prices. We are very excited and look forward to see where this will lead UY.
Finally, could you let us in on any secrets regarding Berlin?
If you want to experience real Berlin, day or night, you just have to keep an open mind. That’s what it’s all about. See you in the darkness.
As featured in Chasseur issue #10 – LOVE ALONE (SS15)