Youth culture, and the eternal sub-cultures that it spawns, are a major driving force, and the face of the future, in today’s society inspiring generations of thinkers, writers, artists, musicians and fashion designers alike. Komakino, a London based label named after the famed 1980 Joy Division single, testify to this with their AW13 collection.
Komakino fuse a streetwear aesthetic with punk and deconstructed tailoring to create an authentic, modernist look, all of their own. In an homage to the youth and street cultures of today, Komakino AW13 is an brilliant re-imagining of counter cultures; the rebellious ‘Harajuku’ styles of Tokyo’s neon canyons, America’s suburban cyber ravers and West Coast skate boys, all polished off with a dose of East London dandy.
Parkas, trench coats and MA.1 jackets combine with deconstructed tailoring such as jackets with cut-out shoulders and bi panelled suits, fused and layered with hood’s and bombers. Basketball shorts are worn over leggings, short sleeved protective tops and vest over traditional shirting. Raver favourite the super wide parachute trouser features and an infusion of luxury comes from pure Scottish cashmere. The collection is accessorised with punky braces and baseball caps embroidered with the slogan ‘Teenage Fantasy’; irreverently summing up the nostalgia the collection will represent for many. Komakino implement subversive design details that include velcro and spring clips/d-rings hanging from tape and bondage straps on denim for a raw effect.
Many designers, from Givenchy to Alexander Wang are pursuing a kind of new urban utilitarian look, and Komakino, who have already collaborated by arbiters of the underground Opening Ceremony, have just entered the ring as strong contenders with their stark aesthetic which perfectly blends military austerity with a joyfully British sense of eclecticism and anarchy.