It’s perhaps the most surprising high fashion collaboration of them all; for this seasons much anticipated H&M capsule, the designer of choice is the notoriously reclusive and decidedly non-mainstream Martin Margiela. Margiela rose to prominence in the early 80’s as one of the Antwerp Six (The Belgian Deconstructionists), a group of avant garde designers that includes Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten and Dirk Bikkembergs. Before launching the eponymous Maison Martin Margiela, he worked initially at Jean Paul Gaultier. As with the sell-out Versace for H&M Collection, that of Maison Martin Margiela is intended as a greatest hits if you will, a collection that reads as a best of from the designers distinguished catalogue. which he intends as a once in a life time opportunity of accessibility for the average you and me. Margiela is highly regarded in fashion circles, respected and revered even, however he has never become a commercial designer, nor a household name like Versace. Having seen the collection in full, we can say that it is beautifully designed and that in translation for the mass market, has lost none of Margiela’s very recognisable identity. It will be a hit with Margiela’s fans for sure but it’s commercial viability, due to the avant garde nature of Margiela’s signature designs, and his public stature (like that of fellow less well known Marni , who’s SS12 H&M Collection saw lukewarm sales) remains to be seen.