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Gender neutral, brooding ballerina’s inspired Nicopanda’s endeavour into sado-romanticism this season as a clan of surly youths straddled the ethereal with gothicised edge. The graceful aura of matrimonial lace and soft tulle ruffles coalesced with laser cut detailing and black vinyl to craft a collection bound by femininity and unhinged with rebellion. Nicopanda’s sullen boys and girls interspersed their gender fluidity with Victoriana ruffles, tulle skirts, sateen bombers and jersey sweatpants unified by hues of jet black, pink blush and chambray blue. Renowned for his collaborative quests Nicola Formichetti joined forces with artists Sam Rolfe and Brendan Smith as well as Italian designer Metaldienchi this season, infusing the collection with daring innovation and poetic composition.

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