For decades now, the Orient has been home to many great designers, who provide the rest of the world an insight into the rich culture and history that inspire them. Xander Zhou is a designer that hails from the small town of Jilin in northwest China and has gone against the grain. For Zhou, heritage is an extension of his work instead of a fundamental feature. He is more concerned with his own aesthetic vision of the 21st century man, playing with unique fabrics and creating exceptionally tailored menswear, than adhering to clichés. Following on from the success of yet another well received collection at London Collections: Men earlier this year, we sat down for an exclusive interview with the designer to talk about his steadfast approach to menswear design and making clothes on another planet.
When did you first feel the urge to design clothes for men?
I guess I have always had an interest in clothes, including making them to my liking, and then making them- period. I design clothes for men to physically recreate an aesthetic image of them that I have in my mind. It is where my creative inspiration comes from. Whereas I have occasionally designed womenswear on demand, although it was an interesting experience, it never gave me the same kind of satisfaction in terms of finding a form for my vision.
Looking back to your early years as a designer, do you remember what intimidated you the most about your future? How did you deal with it in the process?
I think everybody, whether you are a designer or not, at times fears that you will not grow into what you aspire to be, especially when you are a student or just getting started in a profession. Fear that you will not be able to convince the world that you are who you deep down want, believe and know to be. And it is hard, because apart from talent, ambition and perseverance, you will also need some luck now and then. I wish I knew the answer on how to conquer these fears, not only for myself but also for younger designers. But as with many things, I am afraid there is no magic formula. I think the only sensible advice I could give, is believe in yourself, and don’t get paralyzed by the fear. Also, don’t lose yourself in daydreams or self-pity. Just focus on what you do, and do it well. And be prepared to hop on when luck crosses your path.
As a Chinese designer showing in London, have you ever felt any pressure to be a poster boy for your country? To show the world what Chinese designers can do for the world of men’s fashion?
When I show a collection, I mainly fend for myself- my brand, my design, my vision. It is not like stepping into an arena to defend the honour of my country, or my family, or anybody else for that matter. I don’t mean that to sound selfish, but showing a collection of your own design is, in the end, an individualistic experience. I know that part of my audience focus on the fact that I am from China but I have never experienced that as a pressure. If anything, I have always felt the attention of the Chinese media and my Chinese audience as an encouragement. They have cheered me on, so to say. And if my accomplishments can even slightly contribute to showing the world what Chinese designers can do for the world of men’s fashion, then that is an encouragement as well.
In your AW15 collection we saw a turn to a more Western theme. What pushed you into that direction and what personally intrigues you about bringing such cultural references to life through your design?
Actually I have always tried to avoid bringing ‘heritage’ into my designs as much as possible. I have consciously tried to steer away from Chinese elements because I was afraid it would become kitsch, or in the best case scenario, an easy way out. Like “Oh yes, he’s a Chinese designer, those dragons make perfect sense.” I think my Wild West collection was a first attempt to tackle the heritage issue, but I chose a non-Asian culture on purpose. It is an interpretation of Wild West heritage by someone who does not know the first thing about it. It is Orientalism-in-reverse, my way of slaying those dragons.
How do you work to balance the line between the conceptual and the wearable?
For me, it is absolutely imperative that my designs should be wearable. Even showpieces. Not all my pieces are suitable for anyone, anytime. But even the most extravagant designs should enhance the wearer’s presence. I do not create art pieces that reduce the wearer to a walking pedestal.
You have shown skill in being able to work with a range of fabrics to create beautiful pieces. If you had to choose a more experimental material to work with, what would that be and what would you like to make?
I would love to use some futuristic material that interacts with the person who wears it, and is able to express emotion like the skin of a chameleon or a squid. Like when you walk into a bar and see someone you like, you don’t have to use those awkward pick-up lines anymore.
On the labels of your clothes, one can read ‘made on another planet’. Is this a reference to your inspiration or that the pieces look so unlike anything else that we may see?
It is not so much a reference to how different my designs are from anything else out there, but rather to make people think twice about where the clothes are actually made- in China. But a rather different China than the one that comes to mind when you read ‘Made in China’ in the textiles you can buy at your local supermarket. The label should be seen as an invitation to think about this diversity, and trigger interest to explore that unknown place. Like other planets have always triggered the curiosity of us humans.
How comfortable are you personally with being in the spotlight? Do you feel that your clothes can do the talking for you?
I am comfortable with being in the spotlight, as long as the focus is on my design and my creative work. I absolutely enjoy having an audience, although that is not the most basic motivation for me to design clothes. Once the clothes are out there, they should definitely be able to speak for themselves. It would worry me if I had to convince people to like what they see by explaining everything to them. But that doesn’t mean I don’t do any talking. I like talking about my work, or communicate my creative ideas in dialogues with visual artists or other creative people, with words, or without.
What’s next?
There is this saying: It is very difficult to predict- especially the future. That is how I have always felt, and I still deal with it in the same way- next is my next collection. Beyond that, who knows? One can dream, but one should live in reality.
As featured in Chasseur issue #10 – LOVE ALONE (SS15)
Xander Zhou SS15 Collection photographed exclusively for Chasseur
Photography | Chairit Prapai
Photography Assistant | Mibuchi Hisashi
Styling | Cintia Laina
Make Up | Victoria Hickman
Make Up assistant | Mungun-Erdene Bayaraa
Model | Francesco @ FIRST